The plan was to meet at main gate Engakuji, one of the famous five temples in Kamakura, and begin the day at 9:30 with a speech on public manners and Bushido (the way of the Samurai) by 75-year old Sugimura-san. I figured this would be a controversial discussion, and was looking forward to the day. My greatest fear was that this was going to be a day spent with other foreigners (like me and Brian); actually, though, out of the 24 participants, there were very few foreigners: me, Brian, two Chinese who were fluent in Japanese, and one Romanian guy who actually carried a knife and fork in his bag; he didn't even try to use chopsticks, even when we were dining on Shojin ryori (see later)! I was also delighted to discover that the entire day was conducted in Japanese - which was as it should be, and it was good listening practice, too.
The day began in one nice tatami room in the main temple with Sugimura-san's speech. However, contrary to controversial, the smiley man talked first about the newspaper article (noted above), and the publicity. Then he quoted a few un-controversial excerpts from D.T.Suzuki's Zen and Japanese Culture (which is a great book!), and, perhaps not wanting to disturb the wa, did not at all analyze or pontificate on the book. This was actually ok with us, and the group then proceeded on a tour of Engakuji, one of the famous five temples of Kamakura. One of the zen monks was our personal guide and we were permitted to actually enter the temple buildings proper while the lesser riff-raff just had to take photos from outside! We then had a nice bento-lunch before going to Tokeiji, where we were given a tour of Suzuki's home and library.
Following this, we did a zazen-kai (sitting meditation), with a large group of people. It was the rinzai zen, so we actually chanted, reading from our book of koans.
The tour and everything after was really enjoyable, of course, but even more so because the Japanese participants, at first reserved, began to strike up conversations with us as we walked around. Of course, once outside, Brian and I did not stick totally together, but allowed ourselves to become separate, which, I have to say, makes foreigners more approachable than when they're "travelling in packs".
The totally best part of the whole event had to be when we all went to the Hachinoki restaurant to savour Shojin Ryori, which is the very traditional and purely vegetarian food of Buddhist monks (The phone number for Hachinoki in Kita-Kamakura is 0120-23-3722). We again had a great chance to mingle, and, because (of course!) the sake was flowing generously, everyone loosened up and had a great time.
Oh - I should mention that twice on this day - once after zazen, and again after dinner, everyone had to do a little self-introduction (jiko-shoukai). If you really want to test your bravado, try giving a speech in Japanese in front of 23 strangers!
Here are a bunch of pics from the day:
Cemetary and a temple at Engakuji:
You will often see offerings on grave stones, and nearly as often, these offerings are beer, sake or another alcoholic beverage. Below, it's a bottle of sparkling wine. I should be so lucky.
These two were taken inside one of the temple buildings at Engakuji:
Shrine to Daisetsu Suzuki:
Suzuki's library:
In this season, Kamakura is famous for its ajisai (hydrangea):
Always in tune with the season, our dinner consisted of special tofu - Ajisai-dofu:
A fine selection of other vegetarian fare:
Of course, the sake was not too far behind. This is Nigori-zake, a very traditional sweet sake, being served from a special bowl:
We spent the night in Kamakura, and the next morning we walked to Hase Shrine, where we got this shot of ema (wooden prayer plaques) reflected in water:
Where to stay in Kamakura:
Yamakawa minshuku, near Yuigahama station. Tel: (0467)22-0783
For a map, click here: http://reserve.4travel.jp/domestic/hotel/each/10042018/map/
Japanese only, but very foreigner friendly, so easy to communicate.
There are sooooo many places to stay in or around Kamakura. We booked late, and because of the ajisai blooming it was tough to find a place. However, once again, we lucked out. I found the Yamakawa Minshuku, which is just two short stops on the Enoden line from Kamakura station (actually, you can even walk from Kamakura station!). The location was great, the room was small but really quiet, the proprietress was delightfully talkative and friendly, the (Japanese) breakfast was delicious and the price was right: just 5,600 yen per person including breakfast (expect 6,700 or so for dinner and breakfast). If shared showers/bathrooms bother you, and if you need everything to be spic and span, you should seek elsewhere. We, however, will be staying here again!
2 comments:
I've read some of D.T. Suzuki's books. I recently started reading Zen and Japanese Culture.
You must understand Japanese pretty well to be able to participate in this event.
Sounds like a blast I envy how much you have become part of the country you have adopted. For my own part I also thing that your Romanian traveler was right on the money - I've seen the sticks, I've used the sticks, I prefer the fork :). I read the article about Sokichi Sugimura and think he is probably right but just as the level of rudeness in Canada is through the roof in recent years I don't think you can turn back the clock to a time when politeness will ever come back into fashion.
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