Easter is here. This is the first time in about thirteen years that I have been in a pre-dominantly Christian country, and where Easter is even acknowledged. For me, I find it pleasant enough just to have a reason for people to be off work (I, of course, am off just about every day!). My mother has gone to Ottawa to enjoy some time with my brother and sister-in-law, and will very likely have a nice dinner. I will be going to my friend's place for a ham and pineapple - neither of which I have eaten in a very long time.
While Easter is associated with spring and with re-birth, in Japan we celebrate hanami - the lovely sakura (cherry blossoms) that bloom only very briefly before blowing off into th spring breeze. People go out and sit under the trees, sing songs and drink lots of beer. It is the Japanese way to acknowledge the brevity of life, and to appreciate what is present, even if only very briefly.
While I too, am appreciating the day, I am also pleased to have a rebirth. Spring is a great time to start fresh, to make spring resolutions, and get healthy.
Showing posts with label Japan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Japan. Show all posts
Saturday, April 23, 2011
Monday, March 14, 2011
Out of the Fire...
And not really into the frying pan at all; but still, even with the earthquake, tsunami, failing nuclear power plants and rolling black-outs, I'm a little bit sorry that I am not in Japan still, although my mother has expressed several times how happy she is that I am not there at this time.
Thankfully - Brian is totally fine and only mildly affected (rolling blackouts, non-running trains).
Everyone by now has seen on the news the extensive damage caused by the massive earthquake that hit Japan on Friday afternoon (March 11th, 2011). Reports now say that the death toll just in Miyagi may exceed 10,000 people. Thankfully for us, though, our area and the region where most of our friends live, was not badly affected and nobody we know has been hurt.
Here is a photo that Brian took of the Numazu Harbor after the earthquake and tsunami. It is very calm - but of course, as he said, the city had closed the storm doors to protect against waves!
<a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8641912/uploads/2011/03/izu-marine-harbor-after-quake.jpg"><img src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8641912/uploads/2011/03/izu-marine-harbor-after-quake-300x222.jpg" alt="" title="izu-marine-harbor-after-quake" width="300" height="222" /></a>
The bigger worry now is the overheating reactors at two nuclear power plants; again, neither is near our home base. However, our city is, indeed, scheduled for rolling blackouts in three-hour periods twice daily
I, however, was very, very far removed from the danger and inconvenience, as I have been snow and ice bound in Montreal since October...
Thankfully - Brian is totally fine and only mildly affected (rolling blackouts, non-running trains).
Everyone by now has seen on the news the extensive damage caused by the massive earthquake that hit Japan on Friday afternoon (March 11th, 2011). Reports now say that the death toll just in Miyagi may exceed 10,000 people. Thankfully for us, though, our area and the region where most of our friends live, was not badly affected and nobody we know has been hurt.
Here is a photo that Brian took of the Numazu Harbor after the earthquake and tsunami. It is very calm - but of course, as he said, the city had closed the storm doors to protect against waves!
<a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8641912/uploads/2011/03/izu-marine-harbor-after-quake.jpg"><img src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8641912/uploads/2011/03/izu-marine-harbor-after-quake-300x222.jpg" alt="" title="izu-marine-harbor-after-quake" width="300" height="222" /></a>
The bigger worry now is the overheating reactors at two nuclear power plants; again, neither is near our home base. However, our city is, indeed, scheduled for rolling blackouts in three-hour periods twice daily
I, however, was very, very far removed from the danger and inconvenience, as I have been snow and ice bound in Montreal since October...
Oddly enough, even with the earthquakes, tsunami, malfunctioning nuclear power plants, and rolling blackouts, I miss my Japan life....
Everyone by now has seen on the news the extensive damage caused by the massive earthquake that hit Japan on Friday afternoon (March 11th, 2011). Reports now say that the death toll just in Miyagi may exceed 10,000 people. Thankfully for us, though, our area and the region where most of our friends live, was not badly affected and nobody we know has been hurt.
Here is a photo that Brian took of the Numazu Harbor after the earthquake and tsunami. It is very calm - but of course, as he said, the city had closed the storm doors to protect against waves!
<a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8641912/uploads/2011/03/izu-marine-harbor-after-quake.jpg"><img src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8641912/uploads/2011/03/izu-marine-harbor-after-quake-300x222.jpg" alt="" title="izu-marine-harbor-after-quake" width="300" height="222" /></a>
The bigger worry now is the overheating reactors at two nuclear power plants; again, neither is near our home base. However, our city is, indeed, scheduled for rolling blackouts in three-hour periods twice daily
I, however, was very, very far removed from the danger and inconvenience, as I have been snow and ice bound in Montreal since October...
Thursday, November 18, 2010
Desperately Seeking Onsen
I've been in Montreal for nearly two months now, and have settled in quite well. Am I missing my former home, however? You bet I am.
Although I am content with things here, I do miss a lot of things from Japan. And Susono. Of course I miss my material possessions like the car and motorbike, but really I miss cultural things, like the way people communicate, like izakaya (especially tori-ichi in Susono), and, especially especially, onsen.
In my search to replace what I am missing, I found a spa in the mountains north of Montreal. Actually, there are several, one of which is even called O-Furo (which means bath in Japanese!). And on Sunday, I went to a spa called<a href="http://www.spalerefuge.com/index.php"> La Refuge</a>, which comes as close to an onsen as I'm likely to find here.
It is a lovely spa, less than an hour's drive from the city. Yes, different from onsen - people have to wear bathing suits unlike in Japan where we go naked; the water was not as hot; and, the worst thing for me - it smelled like chlorine. However, as long as I turn off my comparison-meter, La Refuge was excellent. A wet and a dry sauna, a cold bath, including a cold river plunge!, and two hot baths. Big comfy sofas to relax on, herbal tea on demand - a very relaxing day, really, and I hope to go again for sure. Or even, maybe I could check out O-Furo!
<a href="http://www.spalerefuge.com/index.php">http://www.spalerefuge.com/index.php</a>
Although I am content with things here, I do miss a lot of things from Japan. And Susono. Of course I miss my material possessions like the car and motorbike, but really I miss cultural things, like the way people communicate, like izakaya (especially tori-ichi in Susono), and, especially especially, onsen.
In my search to replace what I am missing, I found a spa in the mountains north of Montreal. Actually, there are several, one of which is even called O-Furo (which means bath in Japanese!). And on Sunday, I went to a spa called<a href="http://www.spalerefuge.com/index.php"> La Refuge</a>, which comes as close to an onsen as I'm likely to find here.
It is a lovely spa, less than an hour's drive from the city. Yes, different from onsen - people have to wear bathing suits unlike in Japan where we go naked; the water was not as hot; and, the worst thing for me - it smelled like chlorine. However, as long as I turn off my comparison-meter, La Refuge was excellent. A wet and a dry sauna, a cold bath, including a cold river plunge!, and two hot baths. Big comfy sofas to relax on, herbal tea on demand - a very relaxing day, really, and I hope to go again for sure. Or even, maybe I could check out O-Furo!
<a href="http://www.spalerefuge.com/index.php">http://www.spalerefuge.com/index.php</a>
Monday, September 27, 2010
A Summary of my Final Week in Japan
It is now Sunday, sort of. It is 2:30 a.m. in Montreal; I'm jet lagged, and I have some time, inclination and an internet connection so I can finally post a little, to recap my final week in Japan.
Saturday, September 18th
Last Saturday, September 18th, Brian and I started the day with long, leisurely cups of tea and coffee, before driving into the mountains for a good run, and then some resting in the sun. Afterward, we met a friend and spent the entire afternoon drinking beer on the lawn of the Gotemba Kogen, one of my favourite weekend places and past-times.
Brian and I then walked a few kilometres to an izakaya where we had dinner, before then walking the final five kilometres home to Brian's place.
Sunday, September 19th
Sunday - we got up early and caught the Shinkansen to Osaka, where we spent the day at my rental flat at Banana House, waiting for the Takkyubin delivery guy to come pick up my suitcases for shipping to the airport, to be ready for my Friday flight. We later went out for dinner near Sakai Higashi station - it was a cute little izakaya (whose name I forget!), and we got our own little private booth. Very cozy, good food, and, of course, great service.
Monday, September 20th ~ Tuesday, September 21st
Monday was a national holiday -keiro no hi, or, Respect for the Aged Day. Actually, this week in September has become known as Silver Week as the 23rd is also a holiday - shubun no hi, or the Autumnal Equinox. Brian had these days off of work, and he also took the rest of the week off for us to spend together. So, no longer having big suitcases to worry about, and not needing my rental room anymore, and not wanting to have to come back if we didn't want to, I checked out of Banana House, never to return.
We had planned ahead, and had a reservation at Ekouin Temple (恵光院) in Koyasan. We took the very comfortable Koya-Go train from Sakai-Higashi station to Koyasan, arriving at about noon. Koyasan is the seat of Shingon Buddhism, and was founded by Koubou Daishi (a.k.a. Kukai) twelve centuries ago. I've had a very strong Buddhist bent for a while, and I'd been wanting to do shukobo (sleep in a temple) for a very long time, so this was the perfect opportunity. Using Jalan.net, a Japanese online hotel reservation site, I found a really good price for a night at Ekoin. This is just lucky timing - every month on the 20th, they offer shukubo for 5,000 yen per person (yes, this is very cheap!). The catch was that we had to share a room with others, so for sleeping, I was in the ladies room, and Brian was in the men's room! But this actually worked in our favour, as the pricier, private reservation options seemed to be flooded with foreigners. I know, as a foreigner myself, it seems snobby to not want to be around other foreigners - but it is just a nicer experience when it feels less touristy. Our shared rooms had only Japanese guests, giving us each an opportunity to learn about Koyasan and Buddhism from people who were really in the know, and to practice our Nihongo. There were ten women in my room, and four in Brian's - it was just fine with us, and we both slept great!
Actually, the whole experience was unforgettable, and I do want to write about it in more detail later, but the basics are:
After a night of shukubo, I felt more at peace, more prepared and accepting of the recent changes in my life and life's path.
Tuesday, September 21st~Wednesday, September 22nd
After such a relaxing evening, and cleansing morning ceremony, Brian and I prepared for the next leg of our journey. We checked bus schedules, and boarded a bus from Okunoin-mae (in Koyasan), and rode through the most spectacular mountains to our next destination - Ryujin Onsen.
As the bus wended its way up and down the windy mountain road, Brian and I sipped a beer and marvelled at the sublime beauty of these wild mountain ranges - they are quite different in scope to the ones we are used to on the other side of Japan, stretching in rolling hills as far as we could see. It was almost sad to arrive at the Ryujin Onsen bus stop.
Ryujin Onsen is a small onsen (spa) village in Tanabe, Wakayama prefecture. It is not at all a city, of course - just a small cluster of traditional ryokan on the Hidaka River. The idea of this kind of town is to provide a relaxing getaway for travellers, where they can rest, eat amazing food, and indulge in the natural hot spring baths. The hot springs here are actually one of the most famous springs in Japan, being one of the 'bijin no yu', or Beautifying Hot Springs. I suppose my skin did feel a lot softer, and did look a little younger, after so many baths!
But actually, the most amazing thing is where we stayed. Also using Jalan, we got a reservation at Kami-Goten ryokan, which is actually very, very famous and has a rich history, having been opened in 1657 for Tokugawa Yorinobu. It is now registered as a 'precious cultural heritage'. And this is where we stayed.
We had a spacious tatami room, and we even got a room with an engawa overlooking the river. We took long baths together in the rotenburo, which we could lock and have as private use; and we over-ate a magnificent dinner, and had a lovely evening stroll, walking around outside in our yukata and geta.
Wednesday, September 22nd ~Thursday, September 23rd
We woke up a bit later than usual at 7 a.m., but then hurried to the baths for a pre-breakfast soak in the rotenburo. We then had an extravagant breakfast with the usual fare of raw egg, rice, miso soup, pickles, tofu, and other delicacies.
As you can guess, it was really hard to finally tear ourselves away from this place, but one night of superiour luxury had to suffice. Our next move was to catch the bus to Tanabe city, where we hoped would be a cute seaside city. Unfortunately, Tanabe does not have much to recommend it - it is a city. That is all. However, we did find a great little shokudo (diner) where we had a good lunch and a cold beer before taking the cozy reserved train from there back to Osaka. Once in Osaka, we did some window shopping around Den-Den town, and stopped for a cocktail at a Mexican restaurant, before going out for dinner at yet a different Mexican place.
Finally, we checked into a love hotel* in the Nanba area, where we were awoken at 4:30 a.m. by the sound of loud, cracking thunder. We opened the one window we had, and listening to the pouring rain, enjoying the lightening and earth shaking thunder.
We finally checked out at about noon on Thursday, and proceeded to spend the rest of the day shopping in Osaka - several more hours in Den-Den town, and then a pit stop to a Yamaya shop, where Brian stocked up on big-city goodies and exotic beers, and I picked up a bottle of wine for us to enjoy together that evening in our hotel room.
Thursday, September 23rd
We managed to enjoy the entire week without dwelling on the fact that this was a whole bunch of lasts. But Thursday night was my truly last night in Japan. And as I had an early flight out of Kansai International, we made a reservation at the Washington Hotel near the airport in Rinku Town...
The hotel is not really near anything, but, luckily, Brian located a coin laundry on the map, so we brought several days' worth of well-worn clothes to the laundromat. The machines were amazing! They were washer/dryers - no need to transfer the clothes; and were soapfree. And the machine would phone your cell-phone when your clothes were done!!
So we put in the clothes, typed in Brian's number, then walked around looking for somewhere to eat. Once again, as often happens for us, we found a great little local izakaya. We had a couple of beers, ate lots of really good food, like kushi-katsu and yakitori and renkon-kinpira, and more. All too soon, Brian's phone rang, and we had to finish up and think about picking up our clothes and heading back to the hotel.
We finally went to sleep after midnight, having set the alarm for 5 a.m. Neither of us minded having so little sleep - I would have stayed awake all night if I could have, to enjoy the time we had there...
Friday, September 24th
I had an uneventful, and even a comfortable, flight - Osaka to Tokyo; Tokyo to Chicago; Chicago to Montreal.
My mother is happy I am here. I am happy to be in a place where I can now truly think about what my future holds...
Getting there:
The train and cable car to Koyasan from Nanba (Osaka) is very quick and comfortable and convenient, and run frequently. However - buses from Koyasan only run from April through November, and only twice per day. You need a reservation. See the link below for the schedule, and call the number for Ryujin bus for a reservation, or make a reservation at the bus terminal window (Koyasan station), or the tourist information at Oku-no-in mae.
LINKS
*A love hotel is a hotel that can be rented for a 'rest' or a 'stay'; we usually choose to stay overnight. Most do not take reservations, and some (a very very few) have cute, kinky rooms, but those ones have largely disappeared.
Saturday, September 18th
Last Saturday, September 18th, Brian and I started the day with long, leisurely cups of tea and coffee, before driving into the mountains for a good run, and then some resting in the sun. Afterward, we met a friend and spent the entire afternoon drinking beer on the lawn of the Gotemba Kogen, one of my favourite weekend places and past-times.
Brian and I then walked a few kilometres to an izakaya where we had dinner, before then walking the final five kilometres home to Brian's place.
Sunday, September 19th
Sunday - we got up early and caught the Shinkansen to Osaka, where we spent the day at my rental flat at Banana House, waiting for the Takkyubin delivery guy to come pick up my suitcases for shipping to the airport, to be ready for my Friday flight. We later went out for dinner near Sakai Higashi station - it was a cute little izakaya (whose name I forget!), and we got our own little private booth. Very cozy, good food, and, of course, great service.
Monday, September 20th ~ Tuesday, September 21st
Monday was a national holiday -keiro no hi, or, Respect for the Aged Day. Actually, this week in September has become known as Silver Week as the 23rd is also a holiday - shubun no hi, or the Autumnal Equinox. Brian had these days off of work, and he also took the rest of the week off for us to spend together. So, no longer having big suitcases to worry about, and not needing my rental room anymore, and not wanting to have to come back if we didn't want to, I checked out of Banana House, never to return.
We had planned ahead, and had a reservation at Ekouin Temple (恵光院) in Koyasan. We took the very comfortable Koya-Go train from Sakai-Higashi station to Koyasan, arriving at about noon. Koyasan is the seat of Shingon Buddhism, and was founded by Koubou Daishi (a.k.a. Kukai) twelve centuries ago. I've had a very strong Buddhist bent for a while, and I'd been wanting to do shukobo (sleep in a temple) for a very long time, so this was the perfect opportunity. Using Jalan.net, a Japanese online hotel reservation site, I found a really good price for a night at Ekoin. This is just lucky timing - every month on the 20th, they offer shukubo for 5,000 yen per person (yes, this is very cheap!). The catch was that we had to share a room with others, so for sleeping, I was in the ladies room, and Brian was in the men's room! But this actually worked in our favour, as the pricier, private reservation options seemed to be flooded with foreigners. I know, as a foreigner myself, it seems snobby to not want to be around other foreigners - but it is just a nicer experience when it feels less touristy. Our shared rooms had only Japanese guests, giving us each an opportunity to learn about Koyasan and Buddhism from people who were really in the know, and to practice our Nihongo. There were ten women in my room, and four in Brian's - it was just fine with us, and we both slept great!
Actually, the whole experience was unforgettable, and I do want to write about it in more detail later, but the basics are:
- Simple but excellent shojin ryori (vegetarian 'monk' meals) for dinner and breakfast
- Pleasant evening walk around Okunoin Temple and all 200,000 graves/tomb stones, including the mausoleum of Toyotomi Hideyoshi
- Participation in morning prayers and meditation (zazen)
- Because it was the 21st of the month, there was also the added, special 'fire ceremony' in honour of Kobou Daishi (Kukai)
- Overall soothing, peaceful, spiritual atmosphere.
After a night of shukubo, I felt more at peace, more prepared and accepting of the recent changes in my life and life's path.
 |
| O-Jizosama at Oku-no-in |
 |
| Oku-no-in at night |
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| Autumnal Moon over Ekoin Temple |
 |
| Vegetarian Breakfast at Ekoin Temple |
Tuesday, September 21st~Wednesday, September 22nd
After such a relaxing evening, and cleansing morning ceremony, Brian and I prepared for the next leg of our journey. We checked bus schedules, and boarded a bus from Okunoin-mae (in Koyasan), and rode through the most spectacular mountains to our next destination - Ryujin Onsen.
As the bus wended its way up and down the windy mountain road, Brian and I sipped a beer and marvelled at the sublime beauty of these wild mountain ranges - they are quite different in scope to the ones we are used to on the other side of Japan, stretching in rolling hills as far as we could see. It was almost sad to arrive at the Ryujin Onsen bus stop.
Ryujin Onsen is a small onsen (spa) village in Tanabe, Wakayama prefecture. It is not at all a city, of course - just a small cluster of traditional ryokan on the Hidaka River. The idea of this kind of town is to provide a relaxing getaway for travellers, where they can rest, eat amazing food, and indulge in the natural hot spring baths. The hot springs here are actually one of the most famous springs in Japan, being one of the 'bijin no yu', or Beautifying Hot Springs. I suppose my skin did feel a lot softer, and did look a little younger, after so many baths!
But actually, the most amazing thing is where we stayed. Also using Jalan, we got a reservation at Kami-Goten ryokan, which is actually very, very famous and has a rich history, having been opened in 1657 for Tokugawa Yorinobu. It is now registered as a 'precious cultural heritage'. And this is where we stayed.
We had a spacious tatami room, and we even got a room with an engawa overlooking the river. We took long baths together in the rotenburo, which we could lock and have as private use; and we over-ate a magnificent dinner, and had a lovely evening stroll, walking around outside in our yukata and geta.
 |
| Hadaka River lines with Ryokan |
 |
| We arrived too early for check-in due to the bus schedule, so we went for lunch at a small shokudo (diner) on the hill...(pictured) |
 |
| We walked down these stairs, beside our ryokan, to access the river |
 |
| We sat beside the river in our yukata |
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| Dinner at Kamigoten Ryokan was as regal as the hotel itself |
 |
| Our room was spacious and beautiful |
 |
| One of the stairways inside our sprawling traditional ryokan |
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| We could have private use of the rotenburo, which overlooked the river. It was nice to be able to bathe together."] |
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| Our ryokan (Kamigoten) had the most authentic, historic front. |
Wednesday, September 22nd ~Thursday, September 23rd
We woke up a bit later than usual at 7 a.m., but then hurried to the baths for a pre-breakfast soak in the rotenburo. We then had an extravagant breakfast with the usual fare of raw egg, rice, miso soup, pickles, tofu, and other delicacies.
As you can guess, it was really hard to finally tear ourselves away from this place, but one night of superiour luxury had to suffice. Our next move was to catch the bus to Tanabe city, where we hoped would be a cute seaside city. Unfortunately, Tanabe does not have much to recommend it - it is a city. That is all. However, we did find a great little shokudo (diner) where we had a good lunch and a cold beer before taking the cozy reserved train from there back to Osaka. Once in Osaka, we did some window shopping around Den-Den town, and stopped for a cocktail at a Mexican restaurant, before going out for dinner at yet a different Mexican place.
Finally, we checked into a love hotel* in the Nanba area, where we were awoken at 4:30 a.m. by the sound of loud, cracking thunder. We opened the one window we had, and listening to the pouring rain, enjoying the lightening and earth shaking thunder.
We finally checked out at about noon on Thursday, and proceeded to spend the rest of the day shopping in Osaka - several more hours in Den-Den town, and then a pit stop to a Yamaya shop, where Brian stocked up on big-city goodies and exotic beers, and I picked up a bottle of wine for us to enjoy together that evening in our hotel room.
Thursday, September 23rd
We managed to enjoy the entire week without dwelling on the fact that this was a whole bunch of lasts. But Thursday night was my truly last night in Japan. And as I had an early flight out of Kansai International, we made a reservation at the Washington Hotel near the airport in Rinku Town...
The hotel is not really near anything, but, luckily, Brian located a coin laundry on the map, so we brought several days' worth of well-worn clothes to the laundromat. The machines were amazing! They were washer/dryers - no need to transfer the clothes; and were soapfree. And the machine would phone your cell-phone when your clothes were done!!
So we put in the clothes, typed in Brian's number, then walked around looking for somewhere to eat. Once again, as often happens for us, we found a great little local izakaya. We had a couple of beers, ate lots of really good food, like kushi-katsu and yakitori and renkon-kinpira, and more. All too soon, Brian's phone rang, and we had to finish up and think about picking up our clothes and heading back to the hotel.
We finally went to sleep after midnight, having set the alarm for 5 a.m. Neither of us minded having so little sleep - I would have stayed awake all night if I could have, to enjoy the time we had there...
Friday, September 24th
I had an uneventful, and even a comfortable, flight - Osaka to Tokyo; Tokyo to Chicago; Chicago to Montreal.
My mother is happy I am here. I am happy to be in a place where I can now truly think about what my future holds...
Getting there:
The train and cable car to Koyasan from Nanba (Osaka) is very quick and comfortable and convenient, and run frequently. However - buses from Koyasan only run from April through November, and only twice per day. You need a reservation. See the link below for the schedule, and call the number for Ryujin bus for a reservation, or make a reservation at the bus terminal window (Koyasan station), or the tourist information at Oku-no-in mae.
LINKS
- Koyasan Information - http://www.shukubo.jp/eng/index.html
- Ryujin Onsen Information -http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/onsen/ryujin.html
- Bus schedule between Koyasan-Ryujin Onsen-Tanabe - http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/transport/pdf/Kii-Tanabe-Ryujin-Koyasan-bus.pdf
- Ekoin Temple (恵光院） (Not to be confused with the Tokyo Ekoin 回向院） - http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/db/mount_koya/eko_in.htm
- Kamigoten Ryokan - http://www.aikis.or.jp/~kamigoten/
*A love hotel is a hotel that can be rented for a 'rest' or a 'stay'; we usually choose to stay overnight. Most do not take reservations, and some (a very very few) have cute, kinky rooms, but those ones have largely disappeared.
Friday, September 17, 2010
Drinking, Running and Cooking
As my time in Japan finally comes to a close, I decided to make one more return Shizuoka, where Brian and I met up with some of my old OL friends for dinner and drinks (For those who don't know - OL means 'Office Lady'!). Of course, I'm spending a few days at Brian's place, and am enjoying several aspects of this return. One thing I'm loving is being surrounded by the lovely Hakone and Ashitaka mountain ranges, and running through the rice paddies and up into the mountains. I did an easy 7km this morning, and hope to get out again tomorrow. Brian still shouldn't run, but we'll get out together for a very light jog in the morning!
Another thing I really like about being here is living in a real apartment rather than a guest house. Brian's apartment is very welcoming and cozy, with a really homey atmosphere. Especially nice is having a kitchen! I've been pretty much living on convenience store food and pre-prepared meals, and had forgotten how relaxing, and pleasurable, cooking could be. Not to mention the fantastic variety of food one can prepare in a full kitchen! For lunch today, I fixed us a couple of beef tacos, complete with guacamole. Dinner will be yaki-tori (some with chicken, some with beef), and a fresh green salad.
I'm going to hang here with Brian for another day or two, then we are both going to head back to Osaka, and from there, do some really fun travelling for two days in Wakayama Prefecture!
Another thing I really like about being here is living in a real apartment rather than a guest house. Brian's apartment is very welcoming and cozy, with a really homey atmosphere. Especially nice is having a kitchen! I've been pretty much living on convenience store food and pre-prepared meals, and had forgotten how relaxing, and pleasurable, cooking could be. Not to mention the fantastic variety of food one can prepare in a full kitchen! For lunch today, I fixed us a couple of beef tacos, complete with guacamole. Dinner will be yaki-tori (some with chicken, some with beef), and a fresh green salad.
I'm going to hang here with Brian for another day or two, then we are both going to head back to Osaka, and from there, do some really fun travelling for two days in Wakayama Prefecture!
Friday, September 10, 2010
A Weekend in Susono
After my computer meltdown, which, with Brian's help via telephone and texting, I had fixed by Friday morning, I decided to go hang out in Susono anyway. So, I guess I could have left the computer unfixed until I got there, and fixed it together, but I needed a project anyway!
I went to Susono on Friday night, and just relaxed with Brian, who is still taking medication and trying to recover from ear/hearing damage incurred when swimming in Fukui several weeks ago. On Saturday, we packed a couple of books and a couple of 'cold ones', and went to sit in the sun in the mountains for a few hours. After that, we went to the Gotemba Kogen, where we sat outside and enjoyed some sausage and German beer. A very pleasant day, all in all.
On Sunday, Brian spontaneously suggested that we go to the Fuji Safari Park. The safari park is actually quite close to us, and easy to get to as there is no traffic on the back roads we use. We've driving and ridden past it so many times, but it just seemed kinda lame, so we never went. However, a few months ago, Susono citizens were given coupons for free entry to the park, in celebration of its 30th anniversary. So, why not?
And frankly - it was really good! As Brian said, it wasn't educational, as there was no information about the lions or tigers as we drove through them, but it was the first time we'd ever seen a lion or a tiger or even a bear quite that close up. All through the park there were signs warning people to keep the windows up and the doors locked...when seeing how big and frisky those lions were, I double-checked the door locks!
Again, Sunday was a great day, a lovely way to spend the weekend. And we even got some photos through Brian's car windows!
A Night and a Day in Miyajima
This post was meant to come way last week. In fact, I was working on uploading the photos below and creating a slide show when my hard disk in my little netbook totally burned up, taking with it any data I'd accumulated over the last three months. I did, luckily, rescue all my photos, however.
Anyway, back to my - now to be brief - report about Miyajima. I hadn't expected too much from this overly-photographed shrine and this overly-touristed island, but still it was one of the places I really wanted to see before leaving Japan. And I am so glad that I did!
Despite the tourists, the island- whose formal name is Itsukushima, but which is commonly known as Miyajima -has a rich history, and retains a lot of charm. And there are even places to escape from the crowds. On my first day there, I hiked up to the top of Mt. Misen, with gorgeous views all along the way. The worst, unluckiest part for me was the descent, when somehow, the two most obnoxious North American women were about 200 metres in front of me the whole way, just speaking as loudly, and inanely, as they possibly could. Still - it was a great hike.
Day two, after a perfectly perfect night spent at the Kinsui Besso, I wandered around waiting for sunrise, and enjoyed the ethereal calm of such an early morning outing. It was so simply sublime. Later, when the tourists started arriving on the ferries, I went hiking again, this time on a less popular trail, that took me over to a lovely, and unpopulated beach, where I cooled my feet in the water before heading back to the ferry by walking lazily along the coast and through the streets of town.
Of course, I took tons of photos of the magnificent Miyajima shrine.
Miyajima is easily done in a day trip from Hiroshima, but to be honest, staying at least one night on the island is the way to go. The whole character changes once the sun has gone down. After jostling with all the other tourists for some decent sunset photos, I went to an izakaya for dinner, not having to rush to cash the last ferry back to the mainland. And when I came out of the restaurant - I was totally alone, and the quiet streets, and could just sit and appreciate the great shrine in silence and solitude.
The Kinsui Besso (or Kinsui Villa) was also a really really great, comfortable place to stay. Located just across the street from the pier, they have a fantastic bath on the top floor, which was also, conveniently, where my cute little room was located too. They have accommodations for one, as well, at a good price, which is not so common for ryokan or minshuku, which generally cater to groups of two or more. The breakfast at Kinsui was also excellent. I definitely would stay there again.
I had a lot of photos, and have put them here in gallery format for ease of loading, etc... Click on the pic for a larger view!
[gallery=1]
Anyway, back to my - now to be brief - report about Miyajima. I hadn't expected too much from this overly-photographed shrine and this overly-touristed island, but still it was one of the places I really wanted to see before leaving Japan. And I am so glad that I did!
Despite the tourists, the island- whose formal name is Itsukushima, but which is commonly known as Miyajima -has a rich history, and retains a lot of charm. And there are even places to escape from the crowds. On my first day there, I hiked up to the top of Mt. Misen, with gorgeous views all along the way. The worst, unluckiest part for me was the descent, when somehow, the two most obnoxious North American women were about 200 metres in front of me the whole way, just speaking as loudly, and inanely, as they possibly could. Still - it was a great hike.
Day two, after a perfectly perfect night spent at the Kinsui Besso, I wandered around waiting for sunrise, and enjoyed the ethereal calm of such an early morning outing. It was so simply sublime. Later, when the tourists started arriving on the ferries, I went hiking again, this time on a less popular trail, that took me over to a lovely, and unpopulated beach, where I cooled my feet in the water before heading back to the ferry by walking lazily along the coast and through the streets of town.
Of course, I took tons of photos of the magnificent Miyajima shrine.
Miyajima is easily done in a day trip from Hiroshima, but to be honest, staying at least one night on the island is the way to go. The whole character changes once the sun has gone down. After jostling with all the other tourists for some decent sunset photos, I went to an izakaya for dinner, not having to rush to cash the last ferry back to the mainland. And when I came out of the restaurant - I was totally alone, and the quiet streets, and could just sit and appreciate the great shrine in silence and solitude.
The Kinsui Besso (or Kinsui Villa) was also a really really great, comfortable place to stay. Located just across the street from the pier, they have a fantastic bath on the top floor, which was also, conveniently, where my cute little room was located too. They have accommodations for one, as well, at a good price, which is not so common for ryokan or minshuku, which generally cater to groups of two or more. The breakfast at Kinsui was also excellent. I definitely would stay there again.
I had a lot of photos, and have put them here in gallery format for ease of loading, etc... Click on the pic for a larger view!
[gallery=1]
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
A Day in Hiroshima
In all my years in Japan, I'd never been to Hiroshima, so I made that my next sight-seeing destination. I arrived at around noon yesterday, and made my way to the Heiwa Kinen Koen (Peace Memorial Park). Hiroshima's modern history is well-known, I think, as the first city to have an atomic bomb dropped on it. This happened on August 6, 1945 at 8:15 in the morning. The Peace Museum puts names and faces to that day, personalizing the tragedy. Some have said that the museum is propaganda; in a way, it is - it tugs at your heartstrings, and seeks to discourage future atomic weapons. I was really interested in the history, and the personal accounts.
One of the main sites, and now a World Heritage site, is the Genbaku (A-Bomb) Dome - the bomb almost directly above this building, and it's disintegrated dome is a strong reminder today.
[caption id="attachment_287" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Peace Park, Memorial Cenotaph and Genbaku Dome"][/caption]
As I said, the museum contains many photographs - some very gruesome - and displays of victims' belongings. This is a recreation of what that day looked like in the immediate aftermath.
This watch, recovered at the site, is stopped forever at 8;15 a.m.
This tricycle I found most moving. It was being ridden by little Shinichi Tetsutani that morning. His father buried his son's remains, along with the tricycle, in the back yard. He exhumed the body in 1985 to bury his son in the family tomb, and the tricycle was put on display at the museum.
Having had enough of this depressing tour, I took the street car (first time I've ever ridding a street car ever!) back to Hiroshima station, and checked in at my hotel - the Ark Hotel, part of the Route Inn chain. Later, I went for an evening walk along the river, and found Cafe Rigolo, lovely cafe with outdoor river-side seating.
And finally, back at the hotel, I went to the top floor where I washed away the grit and gore of the day in a hot bath while looking at a view of the city.
Today I'm expecting to be more pleasant, with a trip to Miyajima, officially known as Itsukushima. It's one of the most famous visited places in Japan, and I'm looking forward to spending the day taking photos of shrines, and hiking Mt. Misen. I'm also looking forward to spending the night at the Kinsui Villa http://www.kinsui-villa.jp/
One of the main sites, and now a World Heritage site, is the Genbaku (A-Bomb) Dome - the bomb almost directly above this building, and it's disintegrated dome is a strong reminder today.
 |
| Genbaku - A-Bomb Dome |
 |
| Peace Park, Memorial |
 |
| Genbaku Dome seen through the Cenotaph |
As I said, the museum contains many photographs - some very gruesome - and displays of victims' belongings. This is a recreation of what that day looked like in the immediate aftermath.
 |
| Display at the Heiwa (Peace) Museum - replica of victims immediatly after the blast |
This watch, recovered at the site, is stopped forever at 8;15 a.m.
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| The watch of one of the victims, whose body was never recovered. It is forever stopped at 8:15 a.m., the time the bomb was dropped |
This tricycle I found most moving. It was being ridden by little Shinichi Tetsutani that morning. His father buried his son's remains, along with the tricycle, in the back yard. He exhumed the body in 1985 to bury his son in the family tomb, and the tricycle was put on display at the museum.
 |
| The tricycle of 4 year old Shinichi Tetsutani, who was out playing on his trike when the bomb dropped. |
Having had enough of this depressing tour, I took the street car (first time I've ever ridding a street car ever!) back to Hiroshima station, and checked in at my hotel - the Ark Hotel, part of the Route Inn chain. Later, I went for an evening walk along the river, and found Cafe Rigolo, lovely cafe with outdoor river-side seating.
 |
| Cafe Regalo |
And finally, back at the hotel, I went to the top floor where I washed away the grit and gore of the day in a hot bath while looking at a view of the city.
Today I'm expecting to be more pleasant, with a trip to Miyajima, officially known as Itsukushima. It's one of the most famous visited places in Japan, and I'm looking forward to spending the day taking photos of shrines, and hiking Mt. Misen. I'm also looking forward to spending the night at the Kinsui Villa http://www.kinsui-villa.jp/
Monday, August 30, 2010
A Day in Nara
So, being unemployed, but not wanting to be unoccupied, I hopped on the train yesterday to Nara (Roundrip, total 1, 680 yen). I am located much closer to the historic cities of Kyoto and Nara than I was previously, so I am taking advantage of this!
Getting off the train at JR Nara station, an older man, wearing an ID on a lanyard and carrying a flag identifying him as Toshinori Hirata, an official tour guide for Nara Walk (http://www.narawalk.com), approached me about taking a guided tour. Just 2,000 yen for a 3 hour tour by an trained guide.
I'd been to Nara before, but actually didn't know much about it. And, I was alone. So, while I actually might have preferred a Japanese-only guide for practice of my Nihongo, Hirata-san was so enthusiastic, and I really felt I could use a true guide in English, so, I snapped up the offer.
Hirata-san (nickname Benny) is one of the many interesting people I've met in Japan. As we walked, we chatted about my upcoming return to Canada, and about his experiences living abroad when he worked for Panasonic. Then, he said, he retired at 60, but took another job for a small auto-parts manufacturer, and ended up living in Chicago for a few years. It was after he quit that job that he took courses to become an official tour guide. Oh, and he had just gotten back from a month of studying French in Quebec city...this is a man who will never rest!
It was a great day, and having such an interesting guide was good company and good information. 'Benny' is a Nara native, and besides the history of Nara I got to ask questions about Buddhist and Shinto rituals and customs that I wasn't quite sure about. And there was the added benefit of having someone on hand to take photos of me in front of the famous temples!
I highly recommend taking a guided tour if you go to Nara.
Click on the images below for a larger view.
[gallery link="file"]
Getting off the train at JR Nara station, an older man, wearing an ID on a lanyard and carrying a flag identifying him as Toshinori Hirata, an official tour guide for Nara Walk (http://www.narawalk.com), approached me about taking a guided tour. Just 2,000 yen for a 3 hour tour by an trained guide.
I'd been to Nara before, but actually didn't know much about it. And, I was alone. So, while I actually might have preferred a Japanese-only guide for practice of my Nihongo, Hirata-san was so enthusiastic, and I really felt I could use a true guide in English, so, I snapped up the offer.
Hirata-san (nickname Benny) is one of the many interesting people I've met in Japan. As we walked, we chatted about my upcoming return to Canada, and about his experiences living abroad when he worked for Panasonic. Then, he said, he retired at 60, but took another job for a small auto-parts manufacturer, and ended up living in Chicago for a few years. It was after he quit that job that he took courses to become an official tour guide. Oh, and he had just gotten back from a month of studying French in Quebec city...this is a man who will never rest!
It was a great day, and having such an interesting guide was good company and good information. 'Benny' is a Nara native, and besides the history of Nara I got to ask questions about Buddhist and Shinto rituals and customs that I wasn't quite sure about. And there was the added benefit of having someone on hand to take photos of me in front of the famous temples!
I highly recommend taking a guided tour if you go to Nara.
Click on the images below for a larger view.
[gallery link="file"]
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Wild Monkeys on a Rampage in Susono
It's seeing a story like this that makes me feel so nostalgic for my old town of Susono. According to the news story, 47 people were injured by monkeys, 21 of the injuries being in Susono city. The video clip in the article is in Japanese, but the woman and man being interviewed, and the surroundings, are in the Chabatake neighborhood of Susono, which is the same general area that I used to live.
Wild monkeys are not uncommon, and Brian and I have seen troops of wild monkeys often when cycling in Susono. This, however, is the first time we've heard of mass attacks, and definitely the first time that I think Susono has made it to the national news!
Article with video clip from News On Japan
http://newsonjapan.com/html/newsdesk/article/83487.php
Wild monkeys are not uncommon, and Brian and I have seen troops of wild monkeys often when cycling in Susono. This, however, is the first time we've heard of mass attacks, and definitely the first time that I think Susono has made it to the national news!
Article with video clip from News On Japan
http://newsonjapan.com/html/newsdesk/article/83487.php
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Beaches in Tsuruga, Fukui-ken
The heat wave here is not letting up, and this worked in our favor this past weekend.
As planned, Brian and I went to Tsuruga city, in Fukui Prefecture, on Friday night. Brian left from Shizuoka right after work - around 5:30 pm, and I left from my sobetsukai (farewell party) at ARC Academy. Luck was really on our side, as my party was moved up to be in the afternoon, so I was done by 5:30 p.m., and had time to get back to my apartment, pick up my packed beach bag, and actually meet Brian on the train in Maibara.
We pulled into Tsuruga city station at about 9:40, and checked into our hotel, the Route Inn, just one minute too late to be able to dine in the hotel restaurant. No biggie, though, as we went to a nearby izakaya, and were really too tired from travelling and earlier partying to stay out late.
We got up in time to catch the bus to Takenami Beach (see map below), where we had a reservation at the Matsuya minshuku.
The white sandy beach was simply pristine, and neither of us remembered swimming in such crystal clear water in Japan - so clear, that even from way up top, where we floated in the salty Sea of Japan, we could count the stones and rocks on the bottom.
We had originally planned to stay just one night, and head back to our respective abodes on Sunday, as Brian had to work on Monday. However - by mid-day on Sunday, Brian figured out a way to take Monday off, and I began combing the area for another night's lodging. It was really impossible to get another night, although the Matsuya was willing to have us but without meals (NOTE: I think the bubble has long ago burst, especially here, and though there were many minshuku around, none of them seemed to be taking customers, at least not at the last minute on a Sunday. My personal guess is that they get a government subsidy if they have a tourist-oriented business, but few are actually in business!). So, we decided to catch the evening bus back to Tsuruga, and make our way to a closer beach on Monday.
The closer beach, called Kehi Matsubara, is only 2.5 km from Tsuruga station, and we didn't really expect it to be awesome. However, we were very pleasantly surprised to find, although a less soft-sandy beach, just as beautiful as our earlier find.
And there was even a nearby inlet with a bridge that we saw some locals jumping from. Not to be out done, Brian and I gave it a try, too! (Not posting pics of my leap, since they are less than flattering!)
All in all, a great long weekend on the Nihonkai (Sea of Japan).
View Tsuruga beaches in a larger map
As planned, Brian and I went to Tsuruga city, in Fukui Prefecture, on Friday night. Brian left from Shizuoka right after work - around 5:30 pm, and I left from my sobetsukai (farewell party) at ARC Academy. Luck was really on our side, as my party was moved up to be in the afternoon, so I was done by 5:30 p.m., and had time to get back to my apartment, pick up my packed beach bag, and actually meet Brian on the train in Maibara.
We pulled into Tsuruga city station at about 9:40, and checked into our hotel, the Route Inn, just one minute too late to be able to dine in the hotel restaurant. No biggie, though, as we went to a nearby izakaya, and were really too tired from travelling and earlier partying to stay out late.
We got up in time to catch the bus to Takenami Beach (see map below), where we had a reservation at the Matsuya minshuku.
The white sandy beach was simply pristine, and neither of us remembered swimming in such crystal clear water in Japan - so clear, that even from way up top, where we floated in the salty Sea of Japan, we could count the stones and rocks on the bottom.
We had originally planned to stay just one night, and head back to our respective abodes on Sunday, as Brian had to work on Monday. However - by mid-day on Sunday, Brian figured out a way to take Monday off, and I began combing the area for another night's lodging. It was really impossible to get another night, although the Matsuya was willing to have us but without meals (NOTE: I think the bubble has long ago burst, especially here, and though there were many minshuku around, none of them seemed to be taking customers, at least not at the last minute on a Sunday. My personal guess is that they get a government subsidy if they have a tourist-oriented business, but few are actually in business!). So, we decided to catch the evening bus back to Tsuruga, and make our way to a closer beach on Monday.
The closer beach, called Kehi Matsubara, is only 2.5 km from Tsuruga station, and we didn't really expect it to be awesome. However, we were very pleasantly surprised to find, although a less soft-sandy beach, just as beautiful as our earlier find.
And there was even a nearby inlet with a bridge that we saw some locals jumping from. Not to be out done, Brian and I gave it a try, too! (Not posting pics of my leap, since they are less than flattering!)
All in all, a great long weekend on the Nihonkai (Sea of Japan).
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| Old Cemetery in Takenami |
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| Dinner at Matsuya |
- Night View of the Sea and Power Plant (from RIP Beerbar)
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| Pristine sand at Takenami |
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| Brian Shooting the Sunset over the Sea of Japan |
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| Another lovely beach, closer to Tsuruga station |
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| Taking the Plunge! |
View Tsuruga beaches in a larger map
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