Craive Hair Salon in Shinsaibashi

Well, hair doesn't grow on trees...well, at least, colour treated hair doesn't. And as it has been just over a month since my last visit to the hair salon, my hair was screaming at me that it was time to go again. Which meant finding a new hair dresser, since I'm not in my old town anymore.

I did a search in the Yahoo Japan search engine, and found several possibilities. Of course, Osaka is brimming with hair salons, but since I am now in a big city with good access, I decided to select my new stylist based on their experience with 'gaijin' hair. My hair is really very different from Japanese hair; it's harder to cut and style, and a hell of a lot harder to colour. In fact, I long ago gave up on actually getting the colour I really want, and settled for a blondish-orange colour.

Anyway, my internet search turned up several options, of which I chose Craive because:

1. They have experience with foreign hair


2. They are located fairly clost to me - just twenty or thirty minutes on foot

Not an issue for me was language. When I called Craive to make an appointment, the receptionist was really nice, happily booked me for the next day at 2 p.m., and enquired whether I required an English speaking stylist. I said no - I really don't need my hair stylist or anyone else to speak English, since I've been muddling through in japanese just fine.

I went for the appointment, and Mariko was the stylist assigned to me. She did a great job, understood the problems with my hair, said she couldn't guarantee that the colour wouldn't fade, but we'd give it a try!

I am very happy with my hair, and the price, though a little on the high side, was in the range of acceptable.

Tenjin Matsuri

This weekend, on Saturday and Sunday, was the annual Tenjin Matsuri (festival) - a very big, very beautiful festival in Osaka that falls in July.

After returning from Walayama in the early afternoon, and after resting a little, I made my way by subway to Tenjin Bashi and the Tenma Jingu shrine, where the festival was underway.

I was a bit early, as everything became more festive as darkness approached, but I enjoyed this festival immensely. I was a bit lost at first, not being sure where it began or finished, and finally discovered that the festival covers several blocks, and maybe nobody was sure when/where the O-Mikoshi would be, and when the boats would do their floating. Definitely, nobody could tell me exactly what time the fireworks would start, or from where!

However, I walked around the streets, made my way to the river, watched some boats, talked to some local yatai (food stall) operators, and enjoyed a beer and yakitori while waiting for the fireworks.

However - as I was sitting under some lovely trees, at 8 p.m., when the fireworks began, my view was largely obscured! I wasn't too bothered by this, actually, as I was really enjoying myself eating grilled ayu fish, and suitably impressing the chef for my Japanese way of eating the whole thing...!

[caption id="attachment_1775" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Festival Boat, before sunset"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1776" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Ayu on the grill"][/caption]

Isonoura and Kada Beaches in Wakayama

I had initially planned to have a quiet weekend at home, just hanging out and maybe studying. However, the recent heat wave combined with a busy week inspired me instead to hop on the train to Wakayama prefecture, and to the beach!

The train ride was about two hours long, but was very very comfortable, with the biggest leg of the ride being on a nice, reserved train. It was also very affordable, costing less than 3,000 yen round trip.

Once I got to Isonoura beach, I chilled out in the sun with my book, had some chit chat with the old man renting beach umbrellas, and napped a little.

As there are no minshuku or other accommodation anywhere near this beach, I decided to take the train one more stop to the next beach, Kada, where I was lucky enough to get last minute, very affordable accommodation at the Otsuya minshuku.

It's a long story, but the woman running the beer-store/rental shop on this beach is also the local 'travel agent', and she helped get me the place to stay. She was so worried, though, because the Otsuya, she informed me, was old and not pretty/clean. Also, she gasped, the toilets were wa-shiki (Japanese squat type), and would this be okay? I smiled and assured her that, yes, no problem! Luckily, two young guys working there recognized that I was probably Japan travel-saavy, and chimed in laughingly that they were sure I'd be fine.

And I was more than fine - the place was awesome. Quiet, lovely tatami room, with an ocean view. I was especially fortunate, actually, as some Japanese minshuku do not offer rooms for one person; I suppose since they charge by the person, it makes more sense to have only two or more. So I really got lucky here.

Kada beach from my room at Otsuya

Locals' boats just before sunset

Sunset Walk

Although the train ride was pleasant, I missed the luxury of having a car. I have not ridden a train to somewhere like the beach in at least 10 years, if not longer. I'm mostly accustomed to not having a car, especially as I'm in a big city. However, when out of the big city, when you simply want to get to a convenience store that is a few kilometres away, or make your way from one beach to another, or just be able to go somewhere that the train doesn't go - a car makes a huge difference.

Heat Wave

Now that rainy season has ended, the summer heat has taken hold with a vengeance. It's generally clear blue skies here, and blazing sunshine, with highs of 37 degrees celsius. According to the news reports, people are experiencing heat stroke, dehydration, and in some cases, death, so they advise everyone to drink lots of water, consume salty foods/supplements, carry a parasol, and use cool ice packs to cool down.

Me - I figure that the best cure for this heat is to hit the beach! Tomorrow being Saturday, I've decided to get on the train early in the morning and make my way to Wakayama prefecture, where there are some reportedly nice beaches on Osaka bay!

Melon Bar

When Brian visited last weekend, he also got the chance to meet Masa, my local bar tender, and a local hanging out at the bar. Brian said that he really liked the place, and I think he enjoyed the familiarity that seems to surround the people there. We were made to feel so welcome, and good travel advice to boot.

I didn't get a photo that night, but here is one from earlier, showing me, Masa and Mariko:

[caption id="attachment_192" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Melon Bar in Osaka"][/caption]

Umi-no-Hi in the City

If you read the Japan Rider blog, this post will be mostly the same - except here I mention the hostess bar we went to!

I've been living in Osaka for just over two weeks, and have had some time to find my way around a little, and even be comfortable being the navigator for visitors.

Speaking of visitors - this was a three-day weekend for most folks, and Brian took the opportunity to come check out my diggs in Osaka. He came up on Friday night and stayed until Monday evening - and it was really great to have the company, and have someone to explore all the bars and restaurants with.

Every year in the past, this long weekend in particular would always find us at a beach somewhere, especially as the holiday - umi-no-hi - translates as Marine Day. But this year, we ate and drank, and drank in the city.

Friday
I met Brian at Nanba station at 8:30 p.m., and we walked back to my place before striking out again in search of dinner. Everything in this district is open super late, so when we rocked up at a yaki-nikku (Korean BBQ restaurant) at 9:45, we were some of the earlier arriving guests!

After the restaurant, even though exhausted, Brian joined me for a beer at my local bar where I've started hanging out.

Saturday
We got started on Saturday morning, when we woke up lazily in my small and dark apartment. We started watching TV and were reminded that it was the Gion Matsuri this day, so as Kyoto - which is where Gion is - is not all that far from Osaka, we made our way by local train to the ancient capital to see some of the festival.

Brian had been to the festival before, but it was my first time. I love Kyoto, so I enjoyed being there, but the festival itself was, well, a little bit of a let down. The streets were too crowded to allow much of a view for someone as vertically challenged as me, and we'd already walked so much that Brian's foot began to burn in pain.

However, we did get a few photos and then had a cold beer and hot lunch at a nearby Indian restaurant!

[caption id="attachment_1755" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Gion Matsuri"][/caption]

Before making our way back to Osaka, Brian introduced me to the Kyoto market, which I have never been to and didn't even know existed. They had lots of things on offer, including these octopuses.

[caption id="attachment_1756" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Octopus on a stick in the Kyoto market"][/caption]

Back in Osaka, we did a little shopping in Shinsaibashi, in the Nanba area of the city, before stopping for margaritas and tacos at a Mexican restaurant!

[caption id="attachment_1757" align="alignnone" width="199" caption="The very famous 'Glico Man' billboard at Shinsaibashi"][/caption]

After this full-on day, we were not done yet. We headed back out at about 9:30 p.m. to find dinner. Now, remember, in days past, B and I would be asleep by 9:30 quite often! However, life here is just getting started. So, out we went, searching for more Mexican food, and found ourselves at a hostess bar! I was thrilled, since I'd never been to one, and that's not the kind of place a girl goes alone, and also not the kind of place a guy willingly goes to with a girl. So - I was stoked!

It was very clean and nice. The very young, cute waitresses were wearing cowboy-style clothes in cut-off short shorts and totally cropped tops.

And they were SO nice!

Of course, when I said this to Brian (who, I actually think, was uncomfortable!), he reminded me that that was their job. So what, I said. They were still very nice!

Anyway, I loved the hostess bar, and can see the attraction if you're a guy. Most of the people there were men without women in tow, and the waitresses each took a table, and stood there chatting to the men. I think I'm gonna see if there are any host bars out there...

Sunday
We didn't have much of a plan for Sunday, but the day went by quickly as we explored the Kuromon Ichiba (market), explored the knife shops of Doguyasuji street, and then went shopping in Den Den Town (electronics and other toys). Of course, we also stopped for lunch, and for that we found a Japanese BBQ restaurant near Nanba station.

[caption id="attachment_1758" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Check out the price of this watermelon in Kuromon Market - 30,000 yen!"][/caption]

We finished off the day with a 20 minute boat tour along the Dotonbori river!

[caption id="attachment_1759" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Sailing the Dotonbori"][/caption]

Monday
In an effort to try to reduce walking and the pressure on Brian's ever-more damaged foot, we thought a trip to the Osaka Aquarium - Kaiyukan - would be restful and pleasant. Pleasant - yes, extremely. But not so restful and it became another day with lots of walking! However, we both agree that it was worth it. The aquarium, though crowded on this national holiday, was soothing and beautiful.

[caption id="attachment_1760" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Swimming Tortoise"][/caption]

The Jellyfish exhibit was especially breathtaking.

[caption id="attachment_1761" align="alignnone" width="225" caption=".."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1762" align="alignnone" width="300" caption=".."][/caption]

After the aquarium, we took the Santa Maria cruise around Osaka bay, and then it was time for our weekend to come to a close and resume business as usual on Tuesday morning...

[caption id="attachment_1763" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Kaiyukan aquarium and Tempozan Harbor Village as seen from the Santa Maria in Osaka bay"][/caption]

Here's a little map. The blue dots show the general areas around Osaka that we visited (excluding the aquarium...). We did all of this on foot - which helps explain the flare-up of pain in B's foot!


View Around Nanba, Osaka in a larger map

Student Life in Nanba

Nanba is the main, happenin' area in Osaka. And I am living in the heart of it.

I'll admit, all the life is sort of energizing, even as it presents something of an assault on my senses. I walk to my Japanese Language school every day, and while I'd like to listen to an audiobook as I stroll, there is just too much external stimuli to allow me it. In fact, there is so much going on all the time, that even a 'stroll' is not possible - it's always more of a determined march!

However, it's not all teeming life all the time. On Sunday, I went for a longish walk, away from the city center, to Tennoji park, and Shi-Tennoji temple.

[caption id="attachment_181" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Shi-Tennoji Temple in Osaka"][/caption]

And although you'd think that, since I'm in one of the best places for night life that I'd be out in the bars and clubs every night...but of course not. Being busy with studying Japanese, and trying to stay on an even footing with all the much younger, more studious students, I'm spending a lot of time in my apartment reviewing kanji or procrasting.

However, it's not all work and no play. Attached to my building is a small bar, called, like my building, Melon. It's not an izakaya, but is a western-style place, and because we're slightly away from where all the real stuff is, tucked away on a side-street, the people who go there are regulars. Dimly lit, and with a sort of dingy by cozy atmosphere, I've been there twice, and am already on a first-name basis with the bar tender and two locals who visit there. It's a nice place to relax with a beer, and also to put into practice some of the Japanese I'm supposed to be learning!

Oh, and just for fun - here's my Student Card:
[caption id="attachment_185" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Student ID"][/caption]

Wordpress Troubleshooting

Well, we had another little problem with our Japan Rider wordpress installation, and in working on a repair, I managed to lose a month's worth of posts and comments...

I'm sad about that, but will soon work to reconstruct the missing posts, which were really mostly about selling my car, selling my bike, and enjoying a few final weeks in Susono.

Anyway, today I went to log into Japan Rider, and the Admin page was reporting an error which went something like this:

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at ....librestore.php) in japanrider/wp-includes/pluggable.php on line 890

So, any normal person would figure the problem was in the pluggable.php file. Not being able to log into control panel, I went in through the backend fia FTP, and snagged the offending file. I opened it in a text editor, and scouted for errors. Didn't see any, but just in case, I uploaded a fresh copy. No success.

Then I thought about the wp-config.php file, which is often the culprit in wordpress errors. Still no luck. So - and this is where I made a mistake - I restored a backup, thinking it would fix the problem, but not realizing that my last backup was more than a month ago, and so I lost the more recent posts. And - it didn't even fix the error!

More research, and I realized the problem was the file in which the error started - namely, in this case, the librestore.php file, about which I actually can find no information. I opened the file, and it was totally empty. Not knowing what it was supposed to contain, I simply took a chance and removed it from the server altogether. Et voila - that worked, and we are back up and running!

I will try to recapture and repost some of the earlier, now missing, posts!

Morning Run in Nagai Koen Park

I have been here for nearly a week, and been without real exercise for just slightly longer than that.

Luckily, there is a gym arond the corner from me, which I went to on Thursday; I stepped on the scale and have, as I feared, gained more unhealthy weight. I've been eating junk food and not getting any morning runs. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I am feeling a tad homesick for the scenic surroundings of Susono, where biking and running were a regular pleasure. Seeking some way to stay healthy in the heart of this big, bustling city, I did a search and found a park that is good for running, and that's just a few subway stops away. Actually, it took me about 40 minutes to get there this morning, but Nagai Koen is big and nice, and has a 3km circuit that you can run or walk around, safe from traffic and in the company of other runners. I only ran 6.3 km this morning, and then walked about 3 km, before heading back home to try to study some kanji, but it felt great.

I figure I can go to the gym three times a week and run on the treadmill and do weights, and then I can go too the park on the weekend for a morning run, and with any luck that will help me shed a few of these extra kilos.

My Studies etc.

Last week, I spent four mornings out of five at the ARC Academy langauge school in Osaka. The first day was a placement test. Then Tuesday was a day off. Wednesday was orientation and a first lesson. And then on Thursday we got started in earnest.

I ended up in the Intermediate class - which surprised me a little as I figured I'd be a bit lower, like lower intermediate. But I think in the placement test, my conversation wasn't bad - because I've been here for so long, although my grammar is atrotious, I think I probably speak with confidence and smoothness that the other, technically better speakers, in my class don't have.

What they do have, though, is A LOT more formal training, and therefore far better reading, writing and grammar skills that I lack. And I am feeling that lack as I struggle to keep up. The vocab and grammar are actually okay, it's those damned kanji that have me stumped.

I have to say, though, that most of the other students (18 others in my class) have a distinct advantage - they are mostly Chinese and hence, have been writing kanji since they were toddlers.

Despite needing a lot of kanji work, I'm really enjoying doing the formal studies and think it will help me improve overall.

Live from Osaka...

Here it is, my first post from my new home base of Osaka.

I got here late on Sunday night, checking into my new apartment at about 9 p.m.

I'm staying at Melon Apartment, which is in a great location in Namba, really near the Dotonbori area - lots of shops, tons of restaurants, and access to pretty much anything you'd want.

These are the obvious perks to living in the heart of things, but I already miss being able to go for a morning run through rice paddies and along mountain roads. And I miss having an apartment that has natural light.

My apartment here is very small, but fairly cute, and as I said, it's in a great location. However, I'm on the ground floor, wedged between buildings, and therefore I get no daylight. However, I really can't complain.

Here are a few pics in my new temporary abode:

[caption id="attachment_168" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Living Room"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_170" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="The whole place"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_169" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Tatami Room, Living Room"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_173" align="alignnone" width="224" caption="Kitchen"][/caption]

Final Day

Today's my final day here. I'm mostly happy, but of course, it is a happiness that contains some sadness.

I had thought that my final days would be full of desperate 'lasts', that I'd be eagerly trying to do my favourite things in my favourite places one last time. However, that was not the case at all. I was satisfied that the last time I did something - the last time B and I rode our mountain bikes to the Kogen for a beer on the lawn, the last time I went to my favourite local onsen, etc... - was the last time. I did not need to re-do a new last time in some artificial recreation.

Yesterday, though, we did do a 'last camping coffee' thing. It was not artificial, as it was nothing we've actually done before. B and I set the alarm and got up at 3:00 a.m. and we headed into the mountains where we made fresh roasted and ground coffee on our Coleman stove, using our camping percolator. And then we sat comfortably, and waited for the light of day. There was no sunrise, since it was super foggy/misty, but it was excellent coffee, enjoyed in such a pleasant, quiet atmosphere. We followed our strong coffee with a small nap in the car, before heading back so I could meet final bill collectors.

Today will involve more cleaning, maybe writing a test, and then heading out to Osaka.

Farewell to Another Friend

On Friday night, I sold my classic-styled, 17-year old Kawasaki Estrella. It was hard to let go, but I need to free myself of 'baggage' and obligation and responsibility. Especially financial responsibility!

I got a good price for the bike. My car dealer originally offered me 30,000 yen (about $300), but a friend of mine networked, and I sold it through him for 80,000 yen ($800). I was very very pleased with this, although my friend did expect a commission. Fair enough, I guess.

[caption id="attachment_160" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Estrella being strapped into the buyer's van"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_161" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="My Solo Ride to Nikko last November"][/caption]

Full Circle: Selling my Pajero Mini

Anyone who has followed the Japan Rider blog knows that I love my car to death. My car is actually a little jeep-like truck, a four-wheel drive, fully-capable, off-road machine with, of course, a manual transmission.

I bought this car on a semi-whim in July of 2006. I'd been considering a new (used) car anyway, and when B and I cycled past a dealer who had this Pajero Mini in his lot, we stopped and looked. And then I couldn't get it out of my mind. It really was love at first sight. And we had a lot of good times in that car (if you know what I mean!).

So saying good-bye to my baby I knew would not be easy, and I've been procrastinating. But when my insurance guy visited today so I could sign the contract and pay for the past month, I saw that today, July 1st, was my last insured day. And I know my luck - if I'd waited even until tomorrow, I would have likely had a fender-bender on the 2km drive to the dealer. So I got in my car this afternoon, and drive her 'home', to the same dealer I bought her from four years ago.

Here's a little gallery of photos, showing a full-circle - the first pic is my car on the lot before purchase, the last photo was taken today, as I parked her back in that same lot.
[gallery]

And more progress

This morning, officially unemployed (see previous post!), I woke up eager to make more headway on packing details. I really needed to submit the paperwork for the moving company, and also complete and mail a cancellation of my JAF (Japan Automobile Federation) membership.

And I had to call my car insurance guy back because he needed me to pay cash for the last month's insurance as they couldn't withdraw it from my bank account...

I accomplished all this this morning, and even made one final trip to the dump with more 'stuff':
[caption id="attachment_147" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="One Last Trip to the Dump..."][/caption]

Officially Unemployed

I woke up this morning to the realization that today is not just a 'day off', but the beginning of a period of being among the unemployed.

And this does not scare me as much as it, perhaps, should, considering that I have a very meager savings and no foreseeable source of income. In fact, though, I feel light and airy (a feeling I'm certain will end as hunger sets in:) But seriously - I feel so free. And not aimless - I have a short term plan of study in Osaka, where I'll be doing a Japanese language intensive course. And then I'll be in Montreal, where I will, at the very least, have a roof over my head and a reliable internet connection. And it is from there, at that point, that new plans will be made. And anything can happen between now and then, so I'm keeping my options open!